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21 días en Argentina

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21 días en Argentina

Tras más de 1000 km de carretera austral, entré a Argentina por Futaleufú junto con mi compañero y amigo Pepe. Al estar todavía muy al sur, el paso no fue elevado lo que hizo que la etapa fuera tranquila.

 

Un día después llegamos a Trevelin, ya en Argentina, donde nos alojamos en la casa de campo de Lolo, amigo de Rodri, el argentino. Allí nos juntamos Rodri y Caro (la pareja argentina), Giovanni (el chileno), Pepe, Hurtado y yo (españoles). Tras casi dos meses viajando junto, esos van a ser nuestros últimos días en familia.

 

Es curioso como en tan poco tiempo pasas de no conocer a una persona a tener plena confianza en ella. Yo no soy muy bueno con la palabra y aun menos al lado de un argentino, así qeu aquí copio lo que escribieron sobre nosotros, los andaluces:

“Los españoles se encargaron de enseñarnos que del otro lado del charco parece haber una comunidad, Andalucía, donde todo parece ser distinto. Nos unimos mucho y descubrimos un mar de cosas en común, ninguna de ellas muy útil para la prosperidad, pero más que suficiente para pasar unos días inolvidables e increíbles. Sus cabezas tenían una muy potente creatividad para desarrollar temas totalmente absurdos y sin sentido, por cierto muy divertidos, que son las cosas que le ponen color y sentido a semejante fuerza natural de aquellos paisajes.
Esperanzados estaremos a la espera del desvío de nuestras teorías”

 

Fue un gran placer compartir con ellos tantos kilómetros y experiencias, conocernos y aprender de cada uno y de nuestros países…pero sobre todo, reírnos. Desde primera hora de la mañana, día tras días, compartiendo los despojos cerebrales de cada uno. Es una maravilla compartir humor con alguien.

 

Y no podíamos despedirnos de otra manera que no fuera haciendo un asado y regado con vino y cerveza. Al día siguiente y con mucha pena nos dijimos hasta luego, porque nos volveremos a ver, y Pepe y yo seguimos rumbo al Parque Nacional de los Alerces.

La ruta por Argentina se podría dividir en dos tramos en función de los paisajes que atravesamos: por un lado el tramo desde Trevelin hasta Villa La Angostura, y por otro desde allí hasta el cruce de Pino Hachado, en total más de 800km hasta la frontera con Chile. Ningún llano.

 

En el primer tramo de la ruta los paisajes eran un poco más de lo mismo que veníamos viendo en la carretera Austral, pero no por ello menos espectaculares.
Tras salir de Trevelin llegamos al Parque Nacional de los Alerces, donde dormimos a la orilla del Lago Futalaufquen a la sombra de impresionantes árboles.

 

Atravesamos el parque en un día por caminos de ripio en no muy buen estado hasta llegar a Cholila. La ruta discurría a la orilla de un gigantesco lago pero entre el mal tiempo y un dolor de rodilla que iba a más, no la disfruté mucho.

 

En Cholila dormimos en el recinto de la Feria Nacional del Asado, mala suerte que no fuera ese día. La rodilla fue a peor, así que tras intentar salir para ver si entrando en calor se pasaba la molestia, decido ir en bus hasta El Bolsón, donde descansaremos unos día.

A partir de esa ciudad nos adentramos en el Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. Tardamos dos días en recorrer los 120km que nos separaba de Bariloche, atravesando dos subidas de más de 20km cada día.

 

Es difícil de imaginar la de cosas que se me pasan por la cabeza cuando tras recogerlo todo y montar la bici, me subo al sillín y se que tengo por delante 20 km de subida. Todos los malos pensamientos se olvida al aplicar la técnica que me enseñó Rodri: ¿Qué estaría haciendo ahora en Inglaterra? Al carajo, prefiero subir cuestas a trabajar.

 

El primer día todo es más sencillo, el sol está fuera y no hay viento. Pasamos la noche en el área del guardaparque y nos levantamos listos para la segunda subida, acompañados de nuestros grandes amigos viento en contra, lluvia y subida sin descanso.

 

Mi truco para subir cuestas interminables es ponerme metas cortas, llegar a la siguiente curva, a la próxima señal…También voy dándome premios cada cierto tiempo que consisten en mirar los kilómetros que llevo para así calcular cuanto me queda de sufrimiento. A todo estoy hay que sumar la canción en bucle que me acompaña cada día y que, para placer infinito de Pepe, comparto con él a gritos en medio de la carretera.

 

La lluvia nos acompañó los últimos 30 – 40 km haciéndolo todo muy placentero. No tenemos otra opción que agachar la cabeza, pedalear y pensar en la ducha caliente que te vas a dar. No puedes ni parar porque tras varias horas, ni la ropa es impermeable ni los zapatos goretex. A ratos no queda otra que reirse y pensar que tuvimos mucha suerte al no tener ninguna avería. Aún no hemos salido del Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi y por él pedaleamos con el fin de llegar a Villa La Angostura.

La etapa entre Bariloche y Villa La Angostura es un fiel reflejo de como todo puede cambiar para bien en muy poco tiempo. La única clave es ir hacia delante….tampoco es que hubiera muchas más opciones, la verdad. La etapa consistía en rodear un inmenso salo 20 km al oeste y 65 km en dirección noroeste.

 

Salimos con viento a favor, todo muy divertido hasta que te das cuenta que en 20 km girarás y re dará de cara. Llegados a ese punto, y para más inri, pedaleando en medio de la pampa, ni un árbol. Tras unos 40 km paramos a comer en la cunera, desmoralizados con el día torcido en una etapa de mierda y viendo que no llegamos, empezamos a plantearnos alternativas.

 

El camino se ha separado de la orilla del lago y tras volver a la carretera se interna en un valle lleno de árboles que nos resguardan del viento. De repente llega la paz a nuestro oído, el ritmo aumenta, la moral sube, sale el sol y sabemos que vamos a llegar.

 

Llegamos a Villa La Angostura, dan 3 días de lluvia y los hostales son carísimos. Pero unos 1000 km antes conocimos a una pareja de unos 60 años que también viajaban en bici. Tienen un hostal allí y tenemos su número. Le echo cara y los llamo y… me equivoco de nombre. El hostal está cerrado pero lo abren para nosotros y nos quedamos tres días allí sin pagar nada.

 

Y así es como un día de mierda acaba increíblemente bien.

Tres días de descanso para comenzar la locura: 9 días sin parar y casi 600km.

 

Antes de que cambie radicalmente el paisaje recorremos la ruta de los 7 lagos hasta llegar a San Martín de los Andes. Es imposible describir esos 107 km de lagos y montañas.
A partir de ahí, desaparecen los árboles y las montañas, nos alejamos un poco de los Andes y todo se torna más desértico y árido.

 

Tras pasar Junín tenemos dos opciones: cruzar a Chile por el paso Mamuil Malal a 1200 metros de altura y más asfalto, o continuar unos 200km al norte, con 100 de ellos de ripio, y cruzar por el Paso de Pino Hachado a casi 1900 metros.

¿Opción fácil o difícil? ¿Asfalto a la derecha o ripio con 15 km de subida para empezar? Rodri nos recomendó ese camino y confiamos en él.

 

El paisaje cambia y se torna aún más desértico. Pasamos la noche en el jardín de la casa de una pareja de ancianos, con la que tomamos mate a la mañana (por educación, no porque nos guste). Ambos están medio sordos lo que hace todo más divertido. Tras hablar un rato a gritos salimos rumbo a Aluminé, remontando el río del mismo nombre por un valle. Esa noche la pasamos en los bomberos, quienes nos dan cama, nos dejan usar su cocina y su baño a cambio de nada.

 

Y es a partir de aquí donde el paisaje cambia aún más. Aparece árboles de diferentes tonalidades de rojos y amarillos, pero sobre todo aparecen araucarias. Ascendemos a unos 1200 metros por una pista de tierra volcánica que es como pedalear por la playa….a 1200 metro de altura, eso sí.

 

Llegamos al cruce de carreteras desde donde sale el desvío a Pino Hachado. Pedimos permiso y acampamos en el jardín de una casa. Tras cenar me voy a dar una vuelta sólo y me encuentro al dieño de la casa. Comenzamos a hablar y me invita a un asado y vino, que comparto con su familia y un curioso elenco de personajes, desde un medio mapuche hasta un chileno viejo, manco y sin dientes que, sorprendentemente, se harta de asado.

Y aquí empieza la etapa reina. Sabemos que tenemos por delante 40 km de ripio en subida hasta llegar a un cruce donde comienza el asfalto y está la aduana Argentina a unos 1500m metros.

 

Seguimos por la pista de arena volcánica, rodeada de árboles bajos de hojas rojas y cada vez más araucarias. Tengo la sensación de estar en otra época, de que en cualquier momento va a salir un dinosaurio a darme las buenas tardes.
Los primeros 30 km son de subida, apareciendo las primeras nieves tras un par de horas. Ascendemos hasta 1750 metros para volver a bajar a 1500 al llegar a la aduana. Sellamos los pasaportes y afrontamos una subida constante de 7 km hasta coronar a 1880 metros.

 

La subida se hace dura tras todo lo que llevamos recorrido. Todo está nevado, no hay ningún descanso y las rectas son interminables. Casi una hora después llegamos a la cima. Yo no puedo hacer otra cosa que reírme a carcajadas al ver detrás mía cientos de montañas, varios volcanes y un par de nubes a mi altura.
La imagen es preciosa pero lo que lo hace aún más increíble es haber llegado allí en bicicleta.

 

Tras una bajada de 8 km llegamos a la aduana chilena y tras 3 días y 180 km más, entramos en Victoria. Desde allí al Valparaiso hay unos 700km que decidimos hacer en bus al no haber nada especialmente interesante. Y es así como he vuelvo a donde viví, llego reventado, con la bici aún mas sucia que mi ropa y yo y con muchas ganas de darme un respiro…aunque eso es difícil en Valparaiso.

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